Our three-month stint in 1973 at the Buhemba National Service Camp in Mara Region had come to an end and we were now being transferred to the Oljoro National Service Camp in Arusha for a further three months of paramilitary training.
We boarded buses for the journey and were naturally excited, as we would be passing through the famous Serengeti National Park.
Travelling through the world-renowned Serengeti – home, according to researchers, to more than two million ungulates, 4,000 lions, 1,000 leopards, 550 cheetahs and 500 different bird species – was clearly a once-in-a-lifetime treat. Even more so, we were entering it for free – an extraordinary experience for a group of youths just exiting their teenage years, as we were.
We began our journey very early in the morning along a rough road winding through thick riverine miombo and acacia woodlands. Two or so hours later, after passing the historic German-built Boma, Fort Ikoma, we emerged into the vast open savannah plains.
Lo and behold! The plains were breathtaking – stretching as far as the eye could see. No wonder the area is called Serengeti, a name derived from the Maasai word “siringet”, which means “endless plains”.
We were told: “The plains were breathtaking – stretching as far as the eye could see. No wonder the area is called Serengeti…”
The journey stretched through Serengeti National Park, the Ngorongoro Conservation Area and Kenya’s Maasai Mara Park.
While the wooded areas had offered glimpses of buffaloes, giraffes, antelopes and smaller groups of wildebeest and zebras, the open savannah presented us with a jaw-dropping safari spectacle.
The sight presented thousands of migrating wildebeest and zebras, accompanied by herds of elephants, cheetahs, hyenas and various birds of prey.
We then crossed a river and paused near a giant baobab tree, its bark bearing deep scars left by elephants peeling it off in search of food and moisture. These trees rank among the largest in the world; some baobab trees live up to 3,000 years. This was Africa in all its glory – nature at its best – transforming the savannah into a theatre for both visitors and wildlife.
Baobabs are also an important food source – for animals like baboons and warthogs. Also in Tarangire you can see lions resting on trees – in peculiar-looking ancient-seeming animals are fascinating to observe. They seem fearless and when threatened, they can reverse into burrows at high speed – with the acceleration of a race car and instant braking. One tourist watching them remarked, “They don’t even know they’re celebrities.”
It was truly a mesmerising experience.
We wished the journey could have lasted longer, but we were merely transiting through the park. Several hours later, we arrived at the Arusha main bus terminal, where our Ahdess gave us an hour to stretch our legs.
My high school friend, the late Adam Lusekelo and I decided to make the most of this break. Lusekelo’s father had been Arusha’s Regional Commissioner the previous year, and we leveraged this connection to charm a few of ‘papa’s’ old friends into giving us some spending money.
Big mistake! We collected enough for a sumptuous meal and a few drinks at the upscale New Arusha Hotel. The indulgence lasted almost two hours. Upon returning to the bus terminal, we found our bus had long departed – and we were now officially classified as AWOL (Absent With-out Official Leave), a serious military offence.
Undeterred, we chose to enjoy a few unsanctioned days in Arusha. It turned out to be quite the week! We even became regulars at the popular Babylon Discotheque, located in the basement of the New Arusha Hotel and run by the vibrant DJ Ali Mayenge.
Occasionally, we would overhear the Oljoro JKT Commandant, Captain Mushi, lamenting his drinking mates about two missing recruits.
Our luck ran out one evening when a fellow patron identified us to Captain Mushi as the elus-ive AWOL duo. He immediately ordered his Military Police to arrest us and toss us into the back of his official Land Rover for a late-night dash to the camp.
We were thrown into a waterlogged cell at the Quarter Guard post of the Oljoro National Service Camp and spent the entire night in water up to our knees before we were released to rejoin our fellow squad mates.
Indeed, it was a deservedly memorable – if difficult and humorous – welcome to our new home at Oljoro.
“Our luck ran out one evening when a fellow patron identified us to Captain Mushi as the elusive AWOL duo…”
📌 The author is a veteran journalist and communication expert. Email: mpumilwa@gmail.com
