DISCOVERING GOD’S BRIDGE AT KIWIRA

BIRDWATCHER'S DELIGHT Rapahel Mbunda

It was a wonderful early morning as we set off from Tukuyu, a small hillside town founded in 1900 by the Germans as a colonial town in Rungwe District of the Mbeya Region. We were travelling in a pickup, enjoying a 360-degree view as we drove towards the home of God’s Bridge. A fine, fresh breeze accompanied our smooth drive along the undulating route.

We passed through fertile wet–dry landscapes rich in soil and abundant with various plant species and banana plantations. The views across the wide, hilly countryside were fantastic. The forests were ecologically lush, with clear freshwater streams and many beautiful tea plantations.

After about 20 kilometres we reached the Kiwira River and proceeded downwards to Daraja la Mungu, or God’s Bridge. We were welcomed by the typical vocalisation and chatty calls of a bird of the miombo woodlands of south-western Tanzania, the Miombo Tit (Melaniparus pallideventris).

At the riverside we met two cheerful women who had come to fetch water for domestic use. We were fascinated by the geological features of the long stretch of rock and by the existence of what they called God’s Bridge, a breathtaking natural marvel that truly lives up to its name.

The women humbly told us that the Kiwira River receives rainwater from different streams flowing from the volcanic Poroto Mountains southeast of Mbeya and from the slopes of Mount Rungwe, before emptying at the northern end of Lake Nyasa.

I respect local knowledge because it often carries deep truths, especially in places where nature does not always follow predictable patterns.

We could feel the mist, hear the roar of the water, and breathe in the calm atmosphere.

Using my hands, I drank the rushing fresh water beneath the bridge while the cool breeze gently refreshed my thoughts.

The two women continued speaking in Nyakyusa, and I managed to catch one word from them, “ukughanighwa”, meaning we love you.

The river surprises many visitors by flowing beneath a natural bridge, but it truly brings joy to the local community and to all who visit.

Another Miombo Tit appeared, soon joined by a Bronzy Sunbird, a Village Indigobird and other mixed species flocks.

We then moved to a spot surrounded by lush greenery and serene landscapes.

As I stood there, I tried to recall my physical geography lessons and remembered that landscapes are not permanent; they change over time and space.

The formation of God’s Bridge is an intriguing natural lava-stone archway created during volcanic eruptions. Its unusual shape developed when the river water rapidly cooled the lava.

We watched the bridge for a while, appreciating it as a breathtaking natural wonder that truly lives up to its name.

Then I noticed a Cabanis’s Bunting (Emberiza cabanisi) watching me, which made for a delightful sighting.

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