We were intrigued by the high-pitched call of a bird emanating from dense grass, betraying its presence. We carefully made our way towards the sound and were astonished to find a Coqui Francolin (Francolinus coqui), small, shy and elusive ground-nesting bird that is typically silent and more often heard than seen. To our delight, it appeared relaxed; usually, this species darts into the undergrowth at the slightest disturbance. Indeed, between grasses it was partly hidden, darting between thickets as if to lure us a little further.
As the sun lit up the sky, we were greeted by the sight of a White-lipped Snake (Crotaphopeltis hotamboeia) crossing the road. This small, slender snake is characterised by its dark olive-green to grey-brown back and pale grey underside. While non-venomous and harmless, like most, it must be food, or mildly venomous, and the White-lipped Snake is mildly venomous and rear-fanged.
This was a remarkable personal sighting as it marked my first time seeing this species. Tanzania is home to about 130 species of snakes, ranging from the light yet venomous Black Mamba to harmless species like the White-lipped Snake.
Snakes are among nature’s most misunderstood creatures; many people view them negatively, yet most are harmless and play an important role as natural pest controllers, feeding on rodents, slugs, insects, and other unwanted creatures.
We then decided to follow a Marabou Stork (Leptoptilos crumenifer) that had landed ahead of us. As a scavenger and opportunistic carrion specialist, it was clearly not hunting. This imposing bird towers over the savannah with an eerie elegance and solemn stare—hardly a pretty sight.
We found it near a shrub, feeding alongside vultures on carrion remains. Although its feathers were striking, it appeared as if wearing rather ill-fitting clothing, making it less graceful than other stork species.
In the dry season in Seronera, bird diversity is at its peak. We spotted the Pangani Longclaw, Red-throated Tit, Usambiro Barbet, Greater Blue-eared Starling and many others, making for an unforgettable birdwatching experience.
We also enjoyed sightings of various wildlife icons, including the Hadzabe and Shosho communities, tiny African black ants, Hibiscus cannabinus (commonly known as Kenaf or Java jute), as well as amazing landscapes and vistas.
By the time our trip ended, the cicadas had stopped their song, the breeze was calm, and the grasses rustled, birds called, trees swayed, and we returned to our lodge carrying not just photographs, but deep memories of nature’s elegance.
Following such rare encounters is a reminder that a lodge in the Serengeti is worth the trip—not merely for accommodation, but for the intimate moments that bring you straight to nature’s heart.
Raphael Mbunda, Lobo Lodge in Usa River. Birding is his hobby. E-mail: mbundar1@gmail.com
