It is by sheer gift of life – and all glory to God – that we are witnessing living history.
The SGR train journey from Dar es Salaam to Dodoma marks a profound revolution in Tanzania’s more than one hundred years of railway transportation. A journey that once took up to 12 hours has now been reduced to a smooth and comfortable three-hour ride.
Recalling how arduous the journey once was, the new experience feels almost surreal. The distance between Dar es Salaam and Dodoma now feels like a mere stone’s throw away. Both the Dar es Salaam and Dodoma railway stations, once known for their chaos, have been reconfigured to meet world-class standards.
One of my most memorable experiences in the 1960s was a journey between Saranda and Manyoni stations, back when steam and diesel engines were the norm. On that trip, our train could not climb the steep incline between the two stations. The engine billowed smoke but failed to gain traction, slipping repeatedly.
Apparently, a preceding oil tanker had spilled fuel on the tracks, leaving both friction and traction virtually non-existent. Railway officials called upon us students – travelling home on leave, mostly to the Lake Zone – to line up along the tracks and sprinkle sand using whatever tools we had, including our bare hands, to help the engine inch forward.
Students can at times become an invincible force. We made it to Manyoni and continued our journey, briefly enjoying a hero-like status. In hindsight, I still don’t know how we made it, but we did.
The SGR train for me was a challenging moment in time. It was my first time with such a ride – ecstatic even. I made a point of soaking in every aspect of the journey, both the in-cabin service and the scenery outside. One major change I noticed after leaving Dar es Salaam was the relocation of the tunnels: the famous Pugu Hills tunnels are no more, with new tunnels now appearing after Kilosa Station.
Before entering the tunnels, the onboard public address system warned of a drop in cabin pressure and advised passengers to chew gum or keep their mouths open to equalise the pressure. As I’m not a fan of chewing gum, I opted to open my mouth—and I did notice a slight pressure in my eardrums. Nothing serious, but certainly a big change from past train journeys.
We departed Dar es Salaam on 2 June 2025 at 6:00 a.m. and arrived in Dodoma a few minutes before 10:00 a.m. Wow! I had witnessed history in motion and been part of history. I quickly dashed out for a hearty breakfast, now under the glow of the newly begun dry season. Having dined in Dar the night before, I was now enjoying breakfast in Dodoma!
Heavens come down – Dodoma is my old town. I spent four years at Dodoma Secondary School (DSS) in the city centre, finishing in 1970, yet I could barely recognise the place! Perhaps that story is best saved for another day. Despite all the changes, I could never truly lose my way around town.
Makole beckons and Tambuka Reli is where Parliament now sits. Sleepy Nzugnzi has found its rhythm, and majestic Kikuyu is now so mellow! Yes, my square-shaped city – Dom – still sliced down the middle by the cobbled One Way Street, drawing many to converge at No. 7 Street.
Dodoma, you awaken memories long past. And SGR, you are an African revolution most fitting in the annals of Tanzania’s transport history.
📌 Munyaga’s contact is munyagab@gmail.com
