By Muhiddin Issa Michuzi
Long before Arusha became East Africa’s safari capital, something truly “wild” happened—Hollywood came to town. And not just any Hollywood—this was big hat, big budget, big personality Hollywood, led by none other than John “Duke” Wayne himself.
The year was 1960. Director Howard Hawks had a dream—or more accurately, a half-crazy idea—to shoot a romantic action-comedy about rugged animal wranglers in Africa who catch exotic beasts for zoos… and, of course, fall in love along the way. The title? Hatari! — Kiswahili for “danger,” because what else could describe chasing charging rhinos and roaring lions with flirtatious glances in between scenes?
To make the film, the entire circus packed up and shipped out to Tanganyika, now Tanzania. The location of choice was the Momella area, nestled in the lush lower slopes of Mount Meru and what is now the Arusha National Park. Hawks wasn’t interested in studio trickery or matte-painted backdrops. No green screens. No digital lions. If a rhino charged, it really charged. If an actor screamed, it wasn’t always in the script but was real!
And so, Arusha played host to one of the most audacious location shoots of the era. The production team hauled in trucks, Landrovers, mobile darkrooms, film reels and enough khaki to clothe an entire battalion of park rangers. Locals watched, half-amused, half-bewildered, as American icons like John Wayne, Italian bombshell Elsa Martinelli and German actor Hardy Krüger roamed the bush pretending to be professional animal catchers—while real warthogs darted across the set.
One standout moment—still whispered about like a legend—involved the crew lassoing a rhinoceros that promptly said “no thanks,” broke free and ran riot. Instead of calling cut, director Hawks bellowed “Keep rolling!” That now-infamous stampede ended up in the final cut of Hatari!, much to the horror of the studio’s insurance team back in Los Angeles.
The safari camp featured in the film was more than a set—it was a real lodge, built by Hardy Krüger himself. The actor had fallen hopelessly in love with the area and stayed on to build what would later become Hatari Lodge. To this day, you can stay there and sip your tea under the same acacia trees, surrounded by vintage photos, old film memorabilia, and possibly the mischievous spirit of a cameraman who never quite made it back from chasing a buffalo.
