The heavens opened and the monsoon winds blew furiously. So, however, it was back to the beach to see what birds we could spot, knowing the wind would scent-lift the chance of people for walkers and add charm to our tranquil walk, as all sorts of birds from across the globe had arrived at these beautiful beaches to forage. Here, the beach is not just a playground—it is also a haven for birds.
The sky teemed with great flocks of pelagic birds of every kind. Among those spotted were Common Terns, Caspian Terns, Heuglin’s Gulls, Sooty Gulls, and Pectoral sandpipers. So many species that had migrated in the open sea, far from the continental coastline, only coming ashore to breed.
This is Zanzibar and today we were treated to a rare opportunity to connect with seabirds on this exotic island off Tanzania’s coast, renowned for its white sandy beaches, aromatic spices, rich history and vibrant culture. Our mission this time was to see seabirds.
Birdwatching in Zanzibar is not easy—it’s a front-row seat to the theatre of nature. Between the sunlit sandy islands of the Zanzibar Archipelago and lush rainforests of Ndurumanga to the coastal waters of Ugunja, these destinations offer a rare chance to connect with nature in all its colour and wonder.
We spent nearly two hours along the beach-side watching seabird after seabird. We’ve walked through Jozani Forest on the Green Interpretive Bird Checklist drive trail, which helped us spot the Eastern Nicator and Lesser Sandplover. But we were also amazed to find one of the island’s rarest—the Red Colobus Monkey.
The wide-eyed colobus from Zanzibar, or Black-and-white Colobus, is known to others as a Lepage Longile. “Colobus” refers to a term meaning “mutilated” in reference to their lack of thumbs.
In Zanzibar, the Red Colobus Monkey is known locally as “Kima Punju,” which translates to “Poison monkey” in Swahili, due to its strong odour. My friend and tour host Tuma Ndukole—officially an Executive Assistant for the Zanzibar Commission for Tourism and a certified safari guide—explained that the odour protects them from predators like eagles, leopards, and chacma. The overhanging canopy in the forest allows the colobus monkeys to move freely and invisibly, and also instinctively know which leaves to use to neutralize any natural toxins.
The wind and ocean spray were often full of action as we gazed out, with the seashore alive with ghost crabs and waves lapping the shore. I was delighted to see sandpipers, Sanderlings, and Ruddy Turnstones darting about. On the rocks, Oystercatchers fed on small fish and crabs, though it was fields of barnhill migrators that filled the sky and beach alike, animated by its greyed head and red bill.
📍 Raphael Mbunda, Leganga Lodge at Usa River. Birding is his hobby.
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